Wide angle photography: Seeing the world at 20mm (2024)

    I’m making 2013 the year of wide angle photography. I’m making an effort to see the world at 20mm after previous obsessions with other focal lengths.

    As I said in my review and retrospective about my first year with the Nikon FM2n, I’ve previously found myself focusing (no pun intended) on 200mm, 135mm and then 50mm lenses. So this year it’s the 20mm.

    Of course that doesn’t mean I’m not shooting with any other lenses; it just means the 20mm lives on my camera day-to-day.

    Shortly after getting the Nikon FM2n and the 20mm from Dean Krakel, I put a roll of film through and took the piano photo down below a ways. I didn’t really feel like I understood wide angle shooting; I have several other 28mm and 24mm lenses on other cameras.

    When I got my DSLR, the first three lenses I had were the 18-55mm kit lens, a Sigma 10-20mm and an 18-200mm — so I had a lot of wide angle available. But of course, on the APS-C sensor in the Canon 30D, wide really isn’t that wide.

    So, of course, I turned to the internet. I found a 2008 article on Ken Rockwell’s site, which I have often found to be a good starting place for Nikon information, entitled “How to Use Ultra-Wide Lenses.” I was inspired by Rockwell’s words and a few of his photos.

    Perhaps unsurprisingly, the first thing I saw through 20mm eyes was a building. Several buildings. Of course, working in downtown Denver, I’m surrounded by them. So I may have to study up more on architectural photography. If nothing else, the perspective of the wide angle lens from street level has me thinking about spending more time with my 4×5 downtown trying to correct some parallax error.

    Or I might have to sell some cameras or some blood or a kidney and get a Linhof Technika like the pretty red one I played with recently. Man, what a camera. But I digress.

    More than its ability to get a big scene into a small frame from a short distance, shooting at 20mm forces a lot of perspective on the viewer. Along with color and leading lines, size can draw the viewer’s eyes to things in your frame, letting you put a small or nearby subject into a whole lot of context without getting lost in the trees.

    And with short focusing distances — the 20mm hits the infinity stop at around 20 feet, so it spends a lot of time there — even something a few feet away at f/5.6 leaves everything out to infinity in focus. The challenge shooting this wide is lines.

    Converging Verticals

    Even though the Nikkor 20mm is a rectilinear lens — which means that unlike a fisheye lens, it keeps straight lines straight — that only applies if you keep the horizon level in your frames. Even tilting up or down a few degrees starts to distort images and lead to the converging verticals problem.

    Converging verticals isn’t necessarily a problem, though. In the photo of the Denver Dry Building above, I feel that it reinforces the size of a building that, when it was built, was almost unbelievably huge and imposing, giving it a sense of grandeur and towering height.

    Below, the Sheraton Downtown Denver hotel gains an even greater sense of immensity with the lines tilting inward at near-45° angles. It’s not quite how you’d see it with your eyes, standing on the sidewalk, but it’s not far from how your brain would interpret what you do see.

    Deep Field

    A symptom of the short focusing distance and wide field of view is incredible depth of field. Even at very wide apertures, the depth of field is astounding. Unfortunately, this means that if your subject isn’t really sharp, it’s pretty obvious.

    As Petteri Sulonen points out in his Mastering Wide-Angle, a wide-angle photograph is much like any big view to the human eye — a feast of details to hunt and examine — which can bring more attention to the areas that aren’t as sharp as you wish.

    In the photo below (which I’m still quite pleased with, mind), the depth of field at f/4.0 was still a couple of inches even at about 6-inches from the subject. Even that, though, wasn’t enough to keep the tuning pegs higher in the photo in focus, which now distracts me a little in this image. I think the same photo at f/8 would’ve given me the sharpness I now realize I wanted on the piano strings, not just the hammers.

    Getting Close

    What I’m finding really works is using the wide angle to get right in the middle of things and bring the viewer along with me. Rather than filling the frame with a lot of noise from distant or unrelated scenery, getting very close lets you fill the whole frame with relevant information.

    Below, the entire scene of the mechanical bull ride at the 2013 National Western Stock Show in Denver is in the frame, including the operator “driving” the bull, the bull itself and its surrounding safety pads, the father holding his young son on the bull, and the crowd gathered to watch riders being thrown. This young father motioned for the operator to stop so he could safely dismount with the boy before being thrown.

    The Foreground

    In a bigger scene, wide angle photography lets us bring the foreground to life in a big way. The effect, to the viewer’s eye, is almost like a pop-up book. They eye is immediately drawn to the subject, but explores the frame to see the context and make connections, and is dragged back to the subject time and time again.

    The Background

    Leading lines let us draw the view to a certain point. Below, the newel post on the banister of the grand staircase in the Colorado State Capitol aims straight for the center of the dome. Above it, concentric rings pull the eye ever further up into the dome itself. It works because in this image (made with my Minolta XE-7 and a Rokkor-X 24mm f/2.8 — a stunningly sharp lens) the wide angle lens brings in the ceiling below the dome and even a little bit of the second floor balustrade, which mirrors the circular architecture of the dome above.

    The newel post is in the foreground, but isn’t quite in focus. It serves as a leading line, but also disappears a bit before the eye gets to the small, dark dot in the center of the dome’s inner ceiling.

    Going forward

    As I move forward through this year of shooting so much wide-angle, I’d like to focus more on people. Jacob Maentz has some really nice examples of environmental portraits made at wide angles. I used my 20mm a lot shooting at the Underground Music Showcase in Denver late last month, shooting bands and individual performers. I’ll try post something soon.

    I’d also like to do more landscapes. Not necessarily like Ansel Adams’ great landscapes, but I’ve recently re-discovered the work of Colorado’s adopted photographer John Fielder, and Benjamin Rasmussen’s work, particularly his HOME collection, are simply incredible.

    If you have suggestions, links, inspirations or any other thoughts as I obsess over wide angle, please add them in the comments below.

    UPDATE: I’m going to try replacing this lens with a Nikkor 24mm f/2.8 Ai-S I picked up on the cheap. I’ve seen some very favorable reviews, this one being the most detailed.

      Wide angle photography: Seeing the world at 20mm (2024)

      FAQs

      What is a 20mm lens good for? ›

      If you love to travel and take pictures of sweeping landscapes or cityscapes then the 10-20mm lens might be what you're looking for. An ultra-wide-angle lens is also ideal for taking pictures of large groups of people since they allow you to stay fairly close to the group yet still get everybody into the shot.

      Is 20mm a wide angle lens? ›

      On a full-frame camera, a 20mm lens is considered wide-angle because there is no crop factor on the camera; however, on a consumer-level DSLR (this includes ALL DSLRs which cost less than $1,600 body only), there is a built-in crop factor, so a 20mm lens on a crop factor camera won't be a wide-angle.

      What type lens is a 20mm lens? ›

      wide-angle prime lens

      What is a good mm for a wide angle lens? ›

      A wide-angle lens has a focal length of 35mm or shorter, which gives you a wide field of view. The wider your field of view, the more of the scene you'll be able to see in the frame.

      Is 20 mm good for landscape photography? ›

      When it comes to traditional landscape photography, a whole lot can be accomplished with just a few focal lengths, and a simple wide-angle lens. A 20mm or 24mm prime lens could bring you a lifetime of great images!

      Is a 20mm lens good for portraits? ›

      With wide lenses, like a 20mm or 24mm, you can capture more of the scene in front of you. You've probably used wide lenses for photographing landscapes or real estate; however, you can create some amazing portraits using wide angles, too!

      How do you use a wide angle? ›

      How to Use a Wide Angle Lens the Right Way - YouTube

      How do you use a Sigma 10 20mm lens? ›

      Sigma 10-20mm f/3.5 EX DC HSM lens review with samples - YouTube

      How do you take wide angle photos? ›

      How to take WIDE ANGLE PHOTOS on any Android! - YouTube

      What is the field of view of a 20mm lens? ›

      20mm (13mm) covers an angle of view of 94 degrees, which is classed as 'ultra-wide'. This focal length encompasses more of the scene than you can take in with normal vision, giving a sense of exaggerated perspective.

      How do you know if a lens is wide angle? ›

      On a full-frame camera, any lens with a focal length of 35mm or wider is considered a wide angle lens, while 24mm and wider is considered an ultra-wide angle lens.

      Is 18mm wide enough for landscape? ›

      Even bumping the zoom in a couple of millimeters from 16mm to 18mm can make a notable difference in image quality. All in all, 18mm is one of the most useful focal lengths for landscapes—right up there with 21mm below.

      Is 18mm wide angle? ›

      Generally, 18mm is considered wide-angle, but it depends on the size of the sensor. A DSLR camera with an 18mm lens WOULD take wide-angle shots, but if you have a compact digital camera or a cameraphone, where the sensor can be really tiny, an 18mm lens would look more like a 50mm lens or longer does on a DSLR.

      Is 24mm wide enough? ›

      24mm will be fine. I would suggest a longer lens as well.
      ...
      Is 24mm wide enough for Iceland?
      MakeCanon
      Focal length6.1mm
      Shutter speed1/640 sec
      Aperturef/2.8
      ISO80
      4 more rows
      Apr 7, 2018

      What size lens is best for landscape? ›

      What Lenses Do Landscape Photographers Need?
      • 14mm f/2.8: A wide-angle, wide-aperture lens for astrophotography.
      • 16-35mm f/4: Intended for the most important range of wide angle shots.
      • 24-70mm f/4: Meant as a walk-around lens for normal focal lengths.
      Feb 20, 2019

      How wide do you need for landscape photography? ›

      For landscape photography nothing really beats a wide angle lens. A wide angle lens is generally considered to be around 14-24mm however there are a number of superb quality ultra wide angle lenses that are changing the game. My secret weapon of choice for all landscape shots is a 7-14mm M.

      Is 20mm wide enough for astrophotography? ›

      The 20mm focal length is simply perfect for astrophotography and expansive vistas.” She shared more of her thoughts in her full review of the new lens.

      What is the 24mm lens good for? ›

      This makes 24mm an ideal choice for landscape photographers, wedding photographers, portrait photographers, photojournalists and street photographers who are looking for a wide angle view of the scene that doesn't feel unnatural to the viewer of the photo.

      What is the 50mm lens good for? ›

      It's one of the most popular lenses on the market, and it can be used for anything from portraits and car photography to landscapes and nighttime shots. The only time you can't use a 50mm lens is when you're so far away from your subject that capturing it requires a telephoto lens.

      Is a 24mm lens wide enough? ›

      24mm (Still Good But Getting Narrower)

      Again, this isn't a hard-and-fast rule and you can take spectacular landscape photographs at 24mm, but you're no longer ultra wide and may start losing the scale and grandeur of some large scenes. Images tend to flatten out the more you zoom in.

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