Ever wondered how a single media empire once dictated what the world wore, ate, and even thought? Michael M. Grynbaum's Empire of the Elite: Inside Condé Nast offers a fascinating glimpse into the rise and fall of a media dynasty that shaped global culture. This isn't just a story about magazines; it's a tale of influence, power, and the seismic shift brought about by the digital age.
The book kicks off with a vivid anecdote: the 1990s Vogue interview process, where aspiring employees had to identify cultural icons like Eileen Ford, Richard Avedon, and Fran Lebowitz. This test wasn't just about knowledge; it was a gatekeeping ritual, a symbolic entry into Condé Nast's exclusive world. Grynbaum peels back the layers of this iconic empire, revealing the inner workings of publications like The New Yorker, Vanity Fair, and GQ, which once held unparalleled cultural sway.
Condé Nast's influence was undeniable. As Grynbaum writes, "For decades, one company… told the world what to buy, what to value, what to wear, what to eat, even what to think." But here's where it gets controversial: the internet and social media have dramatically altered the landscape, democratizing taste and shifting power away from print media. Today, influencers often hold more sway than the magazines that once set the standard.
The story begins at the turn of the 20th century with Condé Montrose Nast, who shrewdly acquired Vogue in 1909. He transformed it into a symbol of “inclusive exclusivity,” appealing to the middle class and establishing it as a global tastemaker. Publications like House & Garden and Vanity Fair thrived until the 1940s, when readers began gravitating toward more accessible outlets. Enter Samuel Newhouse, who acquired the Condé Nast titles during their decline.
And this is the part most people miss: Newhouse's son, Samuel Irving “Si” Jr., recognized the changing attitudes of the 1980s and embraced the era's opulence. Vanity Fair, GQ, and Vogue glorified a luxurious lifestyle, fueled by conspicuous consumption. The embrace of “low culture” further amplified their influence. GQ lionized businessmen, while Vanity Fair staged Hollywood stars on its covers.
Three powerful editors – Graydon Carter at Vanity Fair, Tina Brown at The New Yorker, and Anna Wintour at Vogue – became tastemakers in their own right, wielding considerable power and enjoying lavish perks. Unlimited expense accounts, private chauffeurs, and wardrobe budgets were the norm. The magazine side barely turned a profit, but the Newhouse newspapers subsidized these losses.
However, the golden age of print couldn't last. The 2008 financial crisis and the rise of social media eroded the magazines' cultural dominance. As Grynbaum notes, “The internet demolished the notion of authority in American life.” While publications like Vogue and The New Yorker adapted to the digital age, others at Condé Nast faltered.
One potential criticism of Empire of the Elite is its focus on Condé Nast USA, overlooking the company's global presence. Furthermore, Grynbaum may be seen as avoiding criticism of some top executives, thus preserving the mythology surrounding editors like Wintour and Brown.
Despite these points, the book provides a compelling look at a bygone era. In 2022, Condé Nast's CEO, Roger Lynch, declared the company's future: “This is no longer a magazine company.” The reach and sway have shifted to digital platforms, and print magazines continue to diminish.
What do you think? Do you agree that the internet has truly democratized taste, or do you believe certain publications still hold cultural influence? Share your thoughts in the comments below!
