The diners hadn't dropped any bones on the floor. In fact, the floor was curiously spotless. Was I really standing in Beijing? Could this really be the same "Peking Duck Restaurant" I remembered from 12 years before? Staff whirled in all directions bringing me what I asked for -- immediately. Three hostesses in red traditional Chinese dresses, slit thigh-high, stood alertly by. They wore matching red lipstick. Lipstick!
Twelve years after China's economic boom first blasted off, I had returned to the Peking Duck, one of China's most famous, most durable restaurants, to find out how much Beijing's restaurant scene has changed. And change it has.
The formal name for the restaurant is the China Beijing Qianmen Quanjude Roast Duck Restaurant. It's only one restaurant among many in the Chinese capital specializing in the famous dish, but if you ask directory assistance in Beijing for the Peking Duck Restaurant, this is the place you're invariably connected to. Founded in 1864, the restaurant originated what is widely considered the foremost technique for making Peking duck.
I ate at the Peking Duck for the first time in 1985, a few months after Deng Xiaoping announced the economic reforms that are currently transforming the country. As is the case at many up-market businesses, the dining room of the Peking Duck was segregated according to political rank, Chinese Communist Party cadres eating with the foreigners in the more genteel section of the restaurant.
But by Chinese standards of the time, even the area for common Chinese was snazzy. Folding screens hid the service stations at either end of the cavernous, fluorescently lit dining hall. A smart staff in slightly rumpled uniforms presided over large round tables with plastic tablecloths and table numbers perched on small stands. Beige canvas covered upright chairs. Truly, Peking Duck differed from other upscale restaurants in China only in that it lacked a fish pond in the floor. (Seeing your fish swim in the pond shows the freshness of your ginger-steamed carp.)
At Peking Duck and other restaurants, from street markets to sit-down banquet halls, Chinese felt it perfectly acceptable to toss or spit bones onto the floor. One American business executive I ate with at Deng Xiaoping's favorite Sichuan restaurant in Beijing, called the Sichuan Restaurant, found the freedom to toss refuse intoxicating. The executive flung his bones willy-nilly over his shoulder. When I walked into restaurants in those days I reminded myself, "Don't look down." And since the seven-story Soviet-style Peking Duck had the capacity to serve birds to more than 2,600 people simultaneously, that was quite a large number of possible bones.
Restaurant patrons often dined amid the bone fragments on the tables left from the previous diner. Tablecloths, especially clean ones, were scarce. Napkins? Diners brought their own in the form of paper tissues, the same tissues folks toted around for toilet paper. Only state markets served beer on tap -- in plastic measuring cups, and flat, because the kegs weren't pressurized. Competing for a seat in a nation that did not queue often turned into a contact sport. Once you were seated and eating, hungry new arrivals often stood directly behind you. Breathing down your neck, the not-yet-served waited to pounce on your vacated seat.
A mere six years into this second coming of the Chinese God of Wealth, the Peking Duck moved into a spiffy new pad on one of Beijing's busy new shopping streets. I simply couldn't believe the restaurant's nifty neon facade. Was I in the right place?
I asked the parking lot attendant. She wore a black uniform and stood beside a man-size cartoon duck, molded from plastic in the tradition of a Ronald McDonald or a Big Boy. I suddenly could imagine a Peking Duck franchise next door to every McDonald's in America.
That fantasy may not be far off. The Peking Duck is still segregated by rank, but the management has revamped the downscale section into a full-fledged fast-food outlet. Here the masses consume their orders of the tender duck flesh sitting on yellow plastic benches at Formica tables. (Even closer to that fantasy, as a result of Mayor Marion Barry Jr.'s 1996 trade mission to China, the Peking Duck may even open a branch in the American capital. Talks between the Washington, D.C., government and the Peking Duck management are said to be ongoing.)
I strolled up the driveway to the upscale section. Just inside the door was a souvenir stand selling carved jade ducks, white baseball caps with yellow duck bills and rubber roast ducks (like miniature rubber chickens).
While waiting for my table, I watched the crafting of my Peking duck-to-be through the kitchen's glass wall. Chefs in spotless toques poured boiling water over pale ducks to shrink the pores. Elsewhere in the clean, spacious kitchen, chefs corked the duck bottoms with long wooden stoppers, filled the birds with boiling water and leave them out to dry. Across the kitchen, in the finishing touches of the arduous roasting process, a chef dangled one caramel-brown duck at a time from a long pole over open datewood flames.
The dining room's back wall was a reconstruction of the 1864 facade of the restaurant, before which stood two life-size mannequins in 19th-century Chinese garb. Chinese tourists seemingly couldn't resist snapping their pictures with the two fellows, and the fake roast duck they carried on a platter. Perhaps my biggest surprise, though, was that the dining experience itself could have taken place almost anywhere in the world.
One of the three serious but efficient hostesses seated me (service in China rarely comes with a smile). I was the first person to use my tablecloth. Some unseen hand had folded my cloth (!) napkin decoratively. Along with a cup for tea, the table was set with chopsticks propped on a duck-shape rest and with a crudite dish that contained hoisin sauce and precision-cut scallions. The waitress immediately poured me a cup of tea and brought me a cool, clean towel to cleanse Beijing's dust from my face.
All around me were Beijing's nouveau riche. At the next table, a swank couple ordered a small banquet of dishes. Their cell phones chirped throughout the dinner like caged crickets in the street markets. When they left, they left leftovers. Food in the new China is no longer rationed, I noted, but instead shows social status.
I looked over the lengthy menu, a list including non-duck dishes as well as duck liver, steamed stuffed duck buns, stuffed duck feet, seared duck hearts and what appeared to be every other part of the duck but the quack. (The souvenir stand handled that.) I chose a simple vegetable dish and the main event -- half of a roast duck.
Lickety-split, a chef wheeled out a cart and carved up my half of a canard. He left me with a small plate of thin meat slices, carefully bordered with strips of the slaved-over crispy, lightly smoked skin, a plate of cool pancakes and half the duck head.
I slathered a pancake with the sweet sauce, on top of which I layered a few scallion slices and a slice of duck. Then I rolled the pancake like a miniature burrito and took a bite. The temperatures and textures of the crepe-like pancake, sauce and scallion combined perfectly with the warm, crisp, smoky and fatty duck -- strange as that may sound to a "lite" American palate. Together the effect was singular and delicious. And the couple near me did not spit bones on the floor.
Heaven. Paulette Roberts is a freelance writer who lives in Washington, D.C. A PEKING DUCK BY ANY OTHER RECIPE . . .
Tasting real Peking duck inside Washington unfortunately is extremely unlikely. Making Peking duck at home also has little chance of producing a Peking Duck-tasting Peking duck. The reasons are many, not the least of which is that most instructions for Peking duck read like my mother's recipe for eggnog: "First raise a Guernsey cow in a field the size of . . . ." In other words, the duck's the key.
The evolution of this specialized bird began in Nanjing in the 14th century when a Chinese imperial chef first roasted a duck over charcoal. When the emperor moved the capital from Nanjing to Beijing (then transliterated as Peking), he carried with him the craving for roast duck. Soon the rage for the elegant creature outstripped Beijing's local duck supply. Farmers force-fed the animals to raise them more quickly. Now these flat-backed, white-feathered, yellow-billed ducks live no more than three months before becoming dining extravaganzas. Force-feeding throughout the last 30 days of their lives results in a deep red, slightly marbled flesh. Other ducks aren't so marbled.
Home cooks also would need the special duck kiln. The Peking Duck uses a brick oven that is square on the outside, round on the inside. A sheet-steel trough funnels out the duck drippings. Across the kiln's domed ceiling are steel poles on which the ducks hang during roasting. Only datewood fires the ovens; Peking Duck gave up charcoal more than 100 years ago.
Many Washington restaurants serve what they call Peking duck. Be forewarned, however, that restaurants here do not smoke their ducks over wood, they actually deep-fry them! This technique, restaurants explained, ensures a crisp skin when served, especially for a duck that is roasted earlier in the day. Also, deep-frying speeds up the process.
The duck may have once quacked like a Peking duck, may have once had webbed feet like a Peking duck, but to the connoisseur, deep-frying makes calling it a Peking duck a bit of a stretch. Perhaps we should just dub the terrific ganders served at these local restaurants Washington-roast ducks and enjoy.
CITY LIGHTS, 1731 Connecticut Ave. NW; call 202-265-6688: Baked then deep-fried. $21.95 whole.
FOONG LIN, 7710 Norfolk Ave., Bethesda; 301-656-3427: Roasted, then fried. $12 half; $24 whole.
GERMAINE'S ASIAN CUISINE, 2400 Wisconsin Ave. NW; call 202-965- 1185: "Sweated" in a special low-temperature oven, marinated in a honey-vinegar bath, dried again, roasted, and then fried. $14.95 half; $28 whole.
GUI LIN, 10054 Darnestown Rd., Rockville; 301-424-2888: Roasted, then fried. $9 half; $18 whole.
HARVEST MOON RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE, 7260 Arlington Blvd., Falls Church; 703-573-6000: Uses air- between-skin and boiling-water technique. Roasts then fries. Order in advance. $18 whole.
HUNAN GALLERY, 3308 Wisconsin Ave. NW; call 202-362-6645: Non-fried Peking duck available after daily roasting, at around 11 a.m.; fried version available later in day. $19.95 whole.
MR. K'S RESTAURANT, 2121 K St. NW; call 202-331-8868: Baked in a gas oven, then fried. Serves the breast meat only. $38 for a 4-slice portion.
PEKING GOURMET INN, 6029 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church; call 703-671-8088. $16.50 half; $32 whole. Drain fat off duck for 24 hours, roast, refrigerate, then deep-fry before serving.
RUBY RESTAURANT, 609 H St. NW; call 202-842-0060: Baked and fried. Order in advance. $13.75 half; $25.50 whole.
SICHUAN PAVILION, 1820 K St. NW; call 202-466-7790: Baked and fried. $24 whole.
YENCHING PALACE, 3524 Connecticut Ave. NW; call 202- 362-8200: Baked in a gas oven, then fried. $22.95 whole.
Paulette Roberts CAPTION: Beijing's famed Quanjude "Peking Duck" restaurant, above, has moved to a new location; above left, a carving chef prepares to serve a finished roast duck; left, a chef positions a duck over the wood-fired oven. CAPTION: A family meal at Quanjude Restaurant.
FAQs
What is the difference between Beijing duck and Peking duck? ›
Peking duck is a dish from Beijing (Peking) that has been prepared since the Imperial era. The meat is characterized by its thin, crispy skin, with authentic versions of the dish serving mostly the skin and little meat, sliced in front of the diners by the cook.
Why is Peking duck not Beijing duck? ›The fall of the Yuan Dynasty in 1368 brought about many changes in China and paved way for the rise of the Ming Dynasty. By this time, the recipe took on the name “Peking Duck” , named for the capitol city in China (no more commonly referred to as Beijing).
How many people does 1 Peking duck serve? ›With sides, a whole duck is easily enough of a meal for three to four people.
How many people can China's Beijing Duck restaurant seat? ›Beijing Duck. The Quanjude Restaurant, the largest roast duck restaurant in Beijing if not in the world, opened for business in 1979. Located near Hepingmen Gate (Peace Gate), it has a floor space of 15,000 square meters divided into 41 dining halls, including one, which can serve 600 customers simultaneously.
Why does Peking duck taste so good? ›If you have ever tasted Peking Duck, you understand why it is regarded as a culinary delicacy. The rich flavor of the tender duck meat and crispy duck skin pairs well with the salty, seasoned notes of the hoisin sauce.
Why is Peking duck so expensive? ›High-quality ingredients make up a large part of the cost of the food at these establishments. They only buy the best pieces of meat. They also pair the duck with other high-quality ingredients.
Why is Peking duck controversial? ›The iconic roast ducks hanging the windows of Chinese restaurants once sparked a controversy in California, where legislators chose to accommodate an ethnic minority despite public health concerns.
Do you eat Peking duck with your hands? ›The best way to eat Peking duck is to take a pancake in one hand, pick up a slice of duck using your chopsticks, then coat it in plum sauce. Afterward, spread the sauce using the duck onto the pancake, add some more duck slices, green onion, and cucumber. Finally, roll up the pancake and eat it with your hands.
How healthy is Peking duck? ›White Pekin duck is an excellent source of essential nutrients such as vitamin E, niacin and selenium, with one serving providing more than 20 percent of a person's daily recommended intake. Duck meat is a much better source of vitamin K, vitamin A, and vitamins B1 and B2.
Which country eats the most duck? ›China (5.5M tonnes) remains the largest duck and goose meat consuming country worldwide, accounting for 76% of total consumption.
What do they do with the rest of Peking Duck? ›
In Peking duck restaurants, waiters usually ask the diners what is their preferred way to cook the duck carcass after the meat has been sliced off. Among a few options, duck carcass soup (鸭架汤) is the most popular choice. In fact, many people would take the carcass home to make the soup later.
Why do Chinese people eat Peking Duck? ›The bird gains even more popularity in Oriental Chinese cuisine due to its medicinal properties; the Chinese believe duck meat has the power to relieve cold, phlegm, and even disorders of the kidney. Many of the authentic Chinese restaurants in India, like Chowman, serve Duck as a special delicacy.
Which meal is the biggest in China? ›Dinner has become the most important meal for many Chinese. The dishes usually include soup, a variety of meats and vegetables, and rice.
What is seating etiquette in China? ›Formal seating order
The seat of honor, reserved for the host or the oldest person, is usually the position in the center facing east or facing the entrance to the room. Guests with higher status then sit in close proximity to the seat of honor, while those with lower positions sit further away.
A good rule of thumb is to order one dish per number of diners, plus soup and rice. (This is why dining in big groups is more fun – you can munch more and the cost per person is lower.) The concept of starters, mains and desserts doesn't apply, so order everything at once.
What is the difference between BBQ duck and Peking duck? ›Easiest tell is Cantonese BBQ duck meat/bone has very strong flavour (esp. 5 spice power) and not gamey. Peking duck is a kind of roast duck. As said, it's roasted a specific way and served a specific way (mostly just the skin, sometimes meat is served separately and the bones are made into soup).
What is the best tasting duck to eat? ›Pekin Duck (or Long Island Duck)
Pekin duck is the most popular duck to eat. Pekin duck meat is known for its mild, satisfying flavor that easily adapts to a number of cuisines. It has lighter flesh and milder flavor than either Moulard or Muscovy duck, and is considered perfect for whole roasting.
For instance, Peking duck is traditionally roasted in a closed oven but these days, both open and closed ovens may be used. Open ovens are often found in specialised roast duck shops as a brick fireplace on one side of a wall, with a pole of ducks hanging across it.
Is hoisin sauce the same as Peking duck sauce? ›hoisin sauce, also called Peking sauce, commercially prepared, thick reddish-brown sauce used in Chinese cuisine both as an ingredient in cooking and as a table condiment. Made from soybeans, flour, sugar, water, spices, garlic, and chili, it is sweet and spicy.
Is Peking duck yummy? ›Peking Duck is a delicacy in Chinese cuisine and for obvious reasons. Not only does the tender meat have a decadent flavor but the dish's signature perfect, crispy skin takes great skill and a long time to achieve. It's not a meal that most Chinese people make at home.
Why is duck so expensive in USA? ›
Duck. Though duck is just as delicious as other poultry meat, it has not caught on in the US. One of the biggest reasons for this is that it is not possible to raise ducks with the same large-scale agricultural practices that are used to produce chicken and turkey.
Why isn't duck popular in the US? ›Duck. Though duck is just as delicious as other poultry meat, it has not caught on in the US. One of the biggest reasons for this is that it is not possible to raise ducks with the same large-scale agricultural practices that are used to produce chicken and turkey.
What does eating duck symbolize in China? ›Duck. Duck is one of the most commonly eaten dishes at a Chinese wedding as it is symbolic of fidelity. The duck will be prepared as Peking duck, as the red colour this cooking method gives the meat is also symbolic, with red meaning happiness and luck in China.
What does duck symbolize in China? ›This symbol of eternal love has its roots in one unlikely couple. At Chinese weddings, it's common to see motifs of Mandarin ducks on various decorations. In Chinese culture, Mandarin ducks are believed to be extremely faithful to their partner, and are symbols of love, devotion, affection and fidelity.
Is Peking duck served with bones? ›The meat of the duck is cut up and served with vegetables as a second course, and a soup of the duck's bones with celery cabbage follows. Because of the complicated preparation, Peking duck is primarily restaurant fare.
Do you eat the fat on duck? ›Duck fat, in particular, delivers a rich taste as well as an attractive golden hue that otherwise might be difficult to achieve. A popular addition to fried or roasted potatoes, duck fat can also be used to up the ante for croquettes, pie crusts, and even popcorn.
How many people does a duck serve? ›Unfortunately, a duck does not have much meat, it yields less meat than chicken or turkey. One duck serves usually 2-3 people. It's 2-3 elegant servings, that you would serve to your guests.
Is duck meat good for high blood pressure? ›No significant relationship was apparent between the meat pattern and hypertension. Our findings suggest that a diet rich in fruits, vegetables, tubers and legumes may have an important role in regulating blood pressure.
Can diabetics eat Peking duck? ›You can eat duck meat in moderation if you have diabetes. Ducks are rich in protein and fat. If consumed in excess, duck meat can lead to increased cholesterol levels. Thus, duck meat is suitable for people with diabetes if they avoid duck skin and fat.
Is duck more unhealthy than chicken? ›Duck breast is leaner than chicken breast.
A 3-ounce portion of boneless, skinless duck breast is leaner and has fewer calories than a similar portion of boneless, skinless chicken breast. In fact, it is almost on par with turkey breast according to the USDA.
Is duck a rich meat? ›
Duck, while often associated with a high fat content, is more nutrient-dense than you might think. It contains mostly healthy unsaturated fat, yet still has a rich, meaty flavor.
Do people in the US eat duck? ›The Pekin duck is also the most common duck meat consumed in the United States, and according to the USDA, nearly 26 million ducks were eaten in the U.S. in 2004.
Why is duck better than turkey? ›Duck meat is a much better source of vitamin K, vitamin A, and vitamins B1 and B2. Overall, duck fat is higher in monounsaturated fats that help lower LDL cholesterol than saturated fats, which can have a negative effect on blood cholesterol levels.
Do you only eat the skin of Peking Duck? ›What makes Peking duck special is that you wrap the Peking duck in pancakes. In this case, feel free to wrap the meat and skin together. The two courses as a menu are classic eating way. Actually, you only eat the duck skin.
How many people does half a Peking Duck serve? ›Normally half the duck has 8-10 rolls feeding upto 3-4 people maximum. Groups of 5 or more should order a full duck. The restaurant can also guide better. over a year ago.
How many dishes are in Peking Duck? ›The sugars in the syrup carmelize on the skin during cooking, crisping the skin, and giving it the taste and shiny mahogany colour typical of Peking Duck. The duck is then served as three separate dishes. The three serving presentation is known as “duck three ways.”
How many slices are in a Peking duck? ›Peking Duck is always served in thin, well-cut slices. The whole duck has to be sliced into 120 pieces and diners consume it with light pancakes, sliced cucumbers and a variety of sauces, which are perfect complements to the dish.
Why is it called Peking? ›Peking is the name of the city according to Chinese Postal Map Romanization, and the traditional customary name for Beijing in English. The term originated with French missionaries four hundred years ago and corresponds to an older pronunciation predating a subsequent sound change in Mandarin from [kʲ] to [tɕ].
Why do Chinese eat so many eggs? ›Many Dongyang residents, young and old, said they believed in the tradition passed on by their ancestors that the eggs decrease body heat, promote better blood circulation and just generally reinvigorate the body. “By eating these eggs, we will not have any pain in our waists, legs and joints.
What is the most popular Chinese dish in America? ›General Tso Chicken – According to Grubhub, this sweet fried chicken dish is the most popular Chinese food in America. It's also unhealthy, considering that it is deep-fried and the recipe demands tons of sugar.
What is the number 1 fast food restaurant in China? ›
KFC is by far the most popular fast food restaurant in China: with more than 5,000 restaurants in 1,100 cities in China, KFC dominates the country's fast food landscape.
Do you tip waiters in China? ›Tipping in China is generally uncommon and can even be considered rude or embarrassing in some circumstances so when taking a taxi, enjoying a refreshing drink or tucking into a delicious meal there's no requirement to leave any gratuities. Gratuity is even illegal in airports and some establishments in China!
What do Chinese say before drinking? ›The default toast in China is ganbei (sounds like: “gon bay”) which literally means "dry cup." And unlike in the West, you'll be expected to empty your cup after each toast given, or at least give it your best effort.
Who pays for dinner in China? ›The person who invites a group to dinner is the official host, and he pays. On the flip side, if you invite others out for a restaurant or fast food meal, expect to pay their bill. Never try to split the cost of a meal with your Chinese friends.
What is the most popular day to order Chinese food? ›Each year, millions of Americans gather at Chinese restaurants on Christmas day. In fact, Christmas and Christmas Eve are the busiest day of the year for most American Chinese restaurants.
What do white chopsticks mean? ›There are two pairs of chopsticks to eat with. One pair is ivory-white, which you use to collect the food from the shared dish. The other pair is jet-black, which you use to eat the food from the plate.
What is a typical Chinese lunch? ›Lunch in China presents you with many options if you want to eat like a local: rice, noodles, dishes, dumplings, pancakes, hotpot... Read on to find out more about the 10 most popular meals people eat throughout China at lunch time.
What is Beijing style duck? ›It's a dish consisting of several elements: sliced pieces of roast duck with crispy skin and tender meat, thin pancakes, a savoury sauce and some julienned vegetables. These elements are assembled into a roll for consumption.
Why was Beijing called Peking? ›Why do people call Beijing 'Peking'? Peking is a transliteration the Cantonese name of Beijing, and was how the name of the city was commonly written in English. Beijing is the Pinyin spelling of the name. Pinyin is a Mandarin romanization standard invented and adopted by the PRC in the 1950s.
What is the best duck from Chinese? ›The most popular dish is Peking duck, which originated from Beijing. A whole duck is sliced into pieces before eating. The slices are commonly eaten with green onion, fresh cucumber, and sweet soybean paste wrapped in a pancake made from flour and water. Learn more about Peking duck.
Is Peking duck the same as BBQ duck? ›
Easiest tell is Cantonese BBQ duck meat/bone has very strong flavour (esp. 5 spice power) and not gamey. Peking duck is a kind of roast duck. As said, it's roasted a specific way and served a specific way (mostly just the skin, sometimes meat is served separately and the bones are made into soup).
Is Beijing roast duck healthy? ›Generally a duck, including Peking duck, is considered being good for health and beauty. A duck contains vitamin A, vitamin B2, collagen, potassium, calcium, iron etc.
What is Peking sauce taste like? ›A rich savoury sauce with a hint of sweetness, blended with soybean paste, Chinese plums and sesame. This is a ready-to-use, rich tasting, brown sauce mix great for oriental wraps, meat stews; as a dressing for aromatic crispy duck, dips for spring rolls and other fusion food.
What does Peking mean in China? ›Peking. /ˌpiːˈkɪŋ/ uk. /ˌpiːˈkɪŋ/ the former name for Beijing, the capital city of China. SMART Vocabulary: related words and phrases.
What does Beijing mean in Chinese? ›The name Beijing, which means "Northern Capital" (from the Chinese characters 北 for north and 京 for capital), was applied to the city in 1403 during the Ming dynasty to distinguish the city from Nanjing (the "Southern Capital").
Do Chinese restaurants use duck eggs? ›Salted duck eggs are a classic Chinese side dish, and a traditional way to preserve fresh eggs.
What is the best duck to order? ›Pekin Duck (or Long Island Duck)
Pekin duck is the most popular duck to eat. Pekin duck meat is known for its mild, satisfying flavor that easily adapts to a number of cuisines. It has lighter flesh and milder flavor than either Moulard or Muscovy duck, and is considered perfect for whole roasting.
Its nutrients come in strong portions.
Without a doubt, duck is high on protein and iron just like chicken. However, it is also rich in other nutrients like niacin and selenium. Both of these provide powerful boosts to your immune system.
Submerge the duck in oil and deep fry it, holding it by the neck with heat-resistant oven mitts or just a towel.